Removal of this stuff facilitates reed organ repairs. It is now time to turn our attention to the keyboard, one of the most important elements in a good reed organ repair. You will probably need to replace the felt strips which the reed frame butts impinge right in front of the cells. The *width* of the reservoir cover is determined by the maximum opening of it, *plus* the material glued to the divider, *plus* any material that is folded over on to the face of the reservoir (Mason & Hamlin, usually), *PLUS* some "trim" - at least half an inch. It's better to proceed directly as follows: To drop the front of a key, remove it and withdraw its sticker. The process begins by mixing enough ammonia and tap water (use distilled water if you are in a *very* hard-water area). CATCH RAIL: (Key retainer) A strangely-shaped wooden piece at the rear of the keyboard which prevents the key-tails from rising when the front is pushed down. If the key drop overall is too shallow a thinner thumper felt is usually the best answer. without those inside valves. After all, a reed organ action is only a pneumatic cross-bar switch: the keys (on or off) are the switches, the mutes are the cross-bars. The same will likely happen the first time the reservoir is pulled shut when you eventually re-assemble the organ. The high-back (if present) usually has only a few screws holding it on: these may be driven from inside; remove these, and LABEL them! As screws come in a variety of sizes, so also screw-drivers, and it is prudent to match the two well. Note: The first time you "operate" a freshly covered (and dry) set of exhausters, you will hear fearsome "cracking and crunching" sounds: don't worry: this is glue that inevitably finds its way into cracks and crevices where it isn't needed, breaking loose. Thirteen Different Types of Pump Organs. Best, here, is a *very* thin and *very* sharp skiver's knife, but a single-edge razor blade (changed often) does well. When you stop treadling, the reservoir should open VERY slowly. "Why on earth did they build it this way?" The original text, as far as it went, was on the ROS website for some years, and this revised text replaces it. But, it has the sound of the days of Little House on the Prairie. Possibly, you'll need nothing! A second way to raise the key is to glue small dots of paper or thin card on the top of the sticker. Hold the reed by its butt and tap the tip of it on a hard surface with the reed tongue down: this action will cause the tongue to move away from the frame and loosen any specks lodged near the rivet. More often, though, you are presented with something that has accumulated masses of dirt which has fallen between the keys; some or all of the felt may have been reduced to rubble by moths; and the wires themselves are rusty and/or corroded. Remove the key-slip (in front, below the keys), any lid, music-rack or other items that might restrict access. Once applied, allow it to set for moment or two, then place the valve face-down on the felt, aligning the butt with the piece of tape. Lim­it­ing the con­tent to pipe organs, to the exclu­sion of reed organs and elec­tron­ic instru­ments, whether ana­log or dig­i­tal, is inten­tion­al and the direct out­growth of the mis­sion of the Organ His­tor­i­cal Soci­ety. On the other hand, if the material is folded over on to the face, this can be done now, working the joint down tight, and mitering the corners. It *can* be refinished, though unless it is in really bad shape, I usually leave it alone. But, it has the sound of the days of Little House on the Prairie. But if the springs are outside, you'll need to move your props "around the corner", being careful NOT to punch any hole in the new material (except on the glue joint itself). Pump Organ Restorations specializes in the restoration of all makes and models of Antique Reed Organs, Pump Organs and Melodeon Organs. I find it helpful to next tape off the areas *out*side the pencil tracings with ordinary masking tape. Built in 1868 and enlarged in 1886, it is one of the city's few surviving Second Empire factory buildings. Another way is to use a very straight length of thin metal clamped in position such that it will prevent the blade from wandering too close to the mute itself. Its adhesive fails in a few years. Add Organ. There is usually a seal strip over the hinge, though this *may* go on *after* the exhausters are covered: again, your notes will tell you how to proceed. Reed Organ Society, Inc. - An International Organization. Remove one reed, place it on your work surface tongue up, dip the brush in the ammonia mix, and gently rub away the accumulated material you wish to have gone. Don't rely on memory here: the numbers are often close, but rarely the same, and it's easy to mix them up! The Tracker. Toggle navigation. You will now remove whatever contraption you made up to hold the reservoir open; it will now *stay* open because of the springs, and will stretch the rubber-cloth tightly. If you have watched "Antiques Roadshow", you know how important original finishes can be to professional dealers. In any event, taken them all. Before starting to strip the lower action further, take some time to inspect what you see carefully. Leave them dry, and return them to use. Get advice on doing that kind! This helps prevent getting glue in spots where you don't want it. In a pinch, chamois *can* be used, though it tends to be too "stretchy" and it is thus harder to trim the valves apart neatly. Using a sanding block, remove a little material from the top end of the sticker. ], Willingness to learn. Clean all this away. The Pipe Organ Database is the definitive compilation of information about pipe organs in North America. Reed Organ Society PO Box 47, Independence, MO 64051-0047 USA . Sand both sides, and top and bottom with 200-grit garnet paper in a rubber holder. Putting a screw in a couple of times without doing this guarantees a stripped screw hole. ROS = Reed Organ Society Looking for general definition of ROS? Use a piece of masking tape to indicate where the fabric will lie *after* gluing. You'll have all 61 notes down on their felts in no time. While it would seem evident that a countersunk hole requires a flat-head screw, it is far from unusual to find round-head screws driven into counter-sunk holes, and vice versa. Remove the back first and set it aside. front-to-back, and to keep the key upright. Whatever is used, it is *IMPERATIVE* to rinse away all traces of it. THUMPER FELT: A piece of thick felt (occasionally, punchings on each front pin) which limits the downward travel of each key, and which absorbs the sound of the keys "bottoming out". Steps 1 through 4 should be done before continuing with: 5. There, the crystal dishes from Ireland were on display. However, there may be a group of facings that are the same length for a dozen notes or so, then a group of shorter facings, and so on. As the pressure developed to make ROs cheaper, the style evolved that used a single piece of rubber cloth, often with ribs inside. Renew the gasket here with soft leather if there is any doubt about the condition of the old gasket. Get *all* of the old facing off the wood, by scraping, sanding, or the hot water treatment. It is possible, if this joint is made with the exhauster open, to pull this joint up too tight, which makes the exhauster want to stay open: avoid this! The company's filing status is listed as Active and its File Number is 802074. VISE: A tool without which no repair shop is complete. As time went on, the ribs got smaller, until in some late instruments there were none. It *may* be necessary to pay a bit of extra attention to the reed butts, where the mute leather has left a mark and possibly some corrosion. Both of these unfortunate results can be avoided by "knowing when to stop": this knowledge comes with practice. Hence this treatise. To learn more about reed organs and related instruments, and about the Reed Organ Society, the Reed Organ Society website contains a wealth of information along with links to other reed organ sites. When it cool again, work the leaves and blow the loosened dirt and rust out with the air hose. If you can successfully remove these without destroying them, label them for re-use: otherwise, make new ones to match the old. (Start with the bass reeds, and work towards the treble). If you are lucky, the foundation is NOT glued to the lower action: if you are UNlucky, it is, and you need to seek advice on how to get it apart. 1.2K likes. First, without glue, pull the flap of material into place, moving the free end to and fro until both corners pull tight. You'll quickly learn how hard to hit, and of course, if you go too far, hit it back the other way. … Have handy a block of wood and a small weight, and put the wood on top of the valve, the weight on top of that. They should be preserved, they should be played, and they should be enjoyed. The fourth deadly sin - very common, alas! It's best to start with a piece that's over-size. The chamois makes a good seal, but is too flimsy by itself. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. Outros significados de ROS Além de Sociedade de órgão Reed, ROS tem outros significados. Finally, view the reed against a strong light to be sure there are no specks lurking anywhere in the small space between tongue and frame. In so doing, they often created "monsters" that defy easy maintenance and repair. Screws are capable of exerting enormous forces, which can result in great damage to wood when the compressive strength of the parts is exceeded. And that is the topic of Part 14, forthcoming... Wit the keyboard clean and in place on the action, measure the drop of the two keys at the extreme ends of the keyboard. This is the shallow box on which everything you have exposed sits. Trim the excess leather from the dry mutes by placing each one on a smooth surface and trimming with a razor-blade, using the wood as a guide. This has a large area, hence a large propensity to leak wind. Any twist or irregularity must be sanded out, and the active surface re-sized. Once all the screws are found, removed and labeled, lift the upper action up (there are usually small locating pins somewhere) until it's completely free, and carefully extract it from the case (some actions must go out the back of the case, some only out the front, and only you can determine which yours requires!) You are now ready to begin work on the exhausters. (I once removed well over a hundred tacks, including thumb-tacks, from a 10" x 10" exhauster on a M&H "Baby". [Which end of the screwdriver do I use?] (Some early organs and melodeons did not use bushings on the key pins" excessive wear on these is difficult to reverse: consult an expert). Make some sketches of how the ends were done. Its valves have been removed, their facings cleaned or replaced, and returned to their original positions, and the reeds have been removed, cleaned, and replaced in their cells. Find the exact center of this piece, and make a heavy pencil line across the piece. All of the above must be done twice, of course. Use plenty of glue, and maybe work it through the cloth with a smooth wooden spatula. Attention is now turned to the "stickers", which were removed long ago and which have been kept in order. - music. To do this with good permanent results, the end of the sticker must be sealed (it is endgrain, and glue will soak into it very quickly) before the first dot is applied. But an organ stored thus is likely to have MANY more problems than one that's been at least kept dry and free of rats, mice, moths, and wasps. However, the frame of the reed (save the area occupied by the tongue itself) is only a "support device", and while it may please one's aesthetic sensibilities to have this all shiny and nice, the effort is not necessary, and polishing in this manner compounds your chances of doing major damage to a reed tongue "by accident". Pipe Organ Database. As usual, take off squeezed-out glue with a damp rag. Quick Search Power Search Other Continents. You will be cleaning up the key-board next, a matter with which I will treat in part 13. (See Note 3). A swipe along the edges with a block of bees-wax will help them slide into position. There are a couple of approaches, depending on the mute's shape. Vacuum this dirt off, and look for pencil notations by others who've been ahead of you. Details of how it's held in vary, but by now you should be adept at finding screws in odd places! An iron, not too hot, will usually soften the glue enough to let you remove one exhauster cover as a single piece. The bearing parts can also be soaked in metal-etch, rinsed well, dried and polished on a small wire-wheel (moto-tool size works very well). Immerse a dozen reeds or so in this mixture, and allow it to percolate for a few minutes. Still, they are surprisingly robust, in that they suffer the indignities of dirt and corrosion for years, but go right on speaking. Use eye protection at a minimum for this operation. Once all the above is done, we will turn our attention to the coupler action (if present) and the keyboard. With both *ends* done, and well set up, you can begin the trimming operation. Excellent pristine finish and in good playing condition. Also check a key near the middle: whatever it is, the drop should be the same from end to end. Stubborn stains (usually mouse-pee) may require some 0000 steel wool. ), copying faithfully the original hinging (and using hot glue, of course). Also, the individual pieces of wood which constitute the raised portion of the black keys. A particular challenge in this regard is the coupler mechanism (assuming your organ has one). out, keeping them in order by arranging them on a flat board or some such. This index contains the complete table of contents, and three indexes, based on author, keyword and on reed organ name. In most cases, it is best to remove the stop rail before taking the action out of the case. Working with the white keys only, go through and drop all the high keys until they *just* impinge on the guide. Don't forget that these gluing operations are all done with hot glue! French estey reed organ used . This works for both ivory and pyralin. When all is well, pin the excess cloth out of the way and work the joint down with the stick as before. Lay this piece of rubber cloth out on a flat surface, rubber-side down: use masking tape at ends and edges to hold it straight and flat. If any more tacks are need than these, the glue is not working, probably because not enough has been applied). Complete. Take great. ROS abbreviation stands for Reed Organ Society. Your completed valves are returned to their original positions using the numbers as a guide, to be held in place by the same spring that did so originally. will do: artist's board works well. Usually, cleaning is all that's necessary. Not to be confused with ADvice, something no one wants. (Again, Mason & Hamlin in particular used this technique.) Adjust things so that, when the stick is in place, the two white keys at the extreme ends *just* touch the underside of the stick: if some keys are high, you may at this point have to hold the guide down against your props. Heating destroys enough wood fibers to release the screw, leaving a hole that will still receive the same size screw successfully. When all the tails are tucked, the final seal strips that usually over-lie them can be glued on: leave these over-wide, and when *all* the glue is fairly well set up, trim off all the excess cloth using the *fresh* razor-blade technique. This treatise is intended for those who are tempted to fix up "Aunt Maude's old pump organ"that has languished in the attic since Maude went to her reward. You need to make up a little "jig". Lift the tip of each spring and place it *alongside* of its valve, resting on the soundboard. If this is all that's required, the valves can be placed back in their original positions after the cleaning described, to be held in place as before by the original springs. Soap has sometimes been recommended, but is the worst thing to use, as it will inevitably contain traces of lye which will attract water and promote rust. The fifth deadly sin is that of over-tightening. They subsequently purchased the school building and an adjacent school bus garage. Keep track of those screws, and LABEL everything! Correct this by tapping the top of the balance pin in the appropriate direction: place the tip of a screw driver on the exposed tip, and hit it with the butt of your fist. [Ye Gods: there's 61 (see note) of all those little thingies! Previous issues of the ROS Quarterly are currently available by this special offer - they are free! Put a piece of masking tape on the surface you're working on, lengthwise alongside the felt, but the requisite distance from it so that the butt of the valves can be aligned to it. In any case, you will want to *try* to save one exhauster "wrapper" to use as a guide. The paddle ends can be polished up on a rotating wire brush. Next, you need to observe carefully exactly how the material is applied, especially how it is "closed" at the hinge end. The organ may just need a good cleaning and a few adjustments. The next step is pretty obvious: you'll wrap first one end, then the other, gluing both surfaces first. Only when this condition is met will a screw (regardless of the type of head) create the kind of compressive force between parts which it was designed to do: if any part of the screw impinges on the part which will be under the screw head, inadequate compression will be obtained, and slippage of the joined parts can be expected. Modern screws are formed in dies under great pressure from blank billets, and are generally crude when compared to old ones. Resist the impulse to oil them, as this invariably only works for a while. The sixth - and most common - deadly sin is that of "munging" the heads. First, place the piece of felt for notes 1-13 on a flat surface, and hold it in place with masking tape at the ends. If working on a wood surface, be sure it is scrap you can throw away. Neither technique will work at all. Stubborn stains on ivory can be sanded out with 600-grit paper and great care! If they are truly of ebony, the 0000 steel wool works well. The Reed Organ Society ©2018An International Organization, Reed Organ Manufacturers of Washington, New Jersey, Curiosity. The clean, dry, re-felted frame should be re-attached to the action at this point. You will almost certainly find the keys badly out of level, key-drop too shallow or too deep, and so forth. Following the second rinse. It is important to remove the treadle springs, and disconnect the straps (if they aren't rotted off!) Tradition has it that the bass end is number 1, not that it really matters, as long as you're consistent. A round-head screw, on the other hand, bears on the material directly, and the head remains well above the joined surface. Next, apply glue to the end of the exhauster cover, and pull the cloth up into position, leaving the ends to "flop around": the correct position of the cloth allows space for the rib to lie flat on the inside when the exhauster is closed. It was very successful, with attendees from as far away as Europe and Japan. In this situation, the keys must be removed from the frame before the stickers are lifted out. The OHS Pipe Organ Data­base has a new home. Most often, there will not be much wood there to use as a guide. More portable than pipe organs, free-reed organs were widely used in smaller churches and in private homes in the 19th century, but their … [For the purposes of this dissertation, we will assume all of the reed cells remain intact and properly glued to the soundboard. Of course, you *may* be lucky to find one of these actions which requires nothing more than a good vacuuming to remove loose dirt. Read part 4 before moving on! These are the toughest to do and make work right. Leveling comes next: you will need a good straight piece of wood that you can drop on the key cheeks (if present) or on temporary blocks at the end of the key bed. The 2019 International Reed Organ Society's gathering was held at our musseum last year. A tiny punch-mark works, too. If there's room for it, a wall-paper roller helps, too. While it easy to say that a screw "fastens" something, it does so by a process of creating compression between two parts, so that friction (sometimes aided by glue) will prevent the parts from moving with respect to each other. If the reeds were very loose, this decidedly must be replaced, and it is often the case that this felt has nourished many generations of moth larvae. Whatever leather you use, avoid portions that have creases, warts, holes or other imperfections which might prevent a good seal of the wind-ways. Playing and restoring reed organs is a hobby of mine, bringing them back to their … It is boring work, so take "breathers" often, and have some good music going in the background. Leather can be had from many sources. 1.1K likes. If your organ is the type with mutes which are easily removed (metal hinges), you set the mutes aside earlier. Instead, heat the hinge with a small torch, or even over the stove. Built with concrete5 CMS. Then let it dry thoroughly (overnight is best). Chemically, this solution results in the production of hydrochloric acid, and around any given grain of salt, the concentration of this can become so great as to create pits in the brass. Don't stretch the felt - let it lie naturally. (Mason & Hamlin was the worst offender in this regard, tending to use glue and *nails* to attach the foundation - permanently. I usually remove the valves first, numbering them as I go. Please contact the Publications Secretary for a quote. The bearings can be mixed with out harm, and simply collected in any handy container. Resist the temptation to use felt that can be had nowadays "pre-glued": that glue loses its tack in a few years, and the felt will fall off the valve. Leave them extra-long.
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